Downtown Design
redazione 5/12/2024

Fiorucci, designer of the angels

At the Triennale in Milan, until March 16, the most extensive retrospective ever dedicated to Elio Fiorucci is on display, curated by Judith Clark and designed by Fabio Cherstich

A friend of Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Keith Haring, Elio Fiorucci uniquely blended fashion, art, architecture, and music into a single creative universe. The Milan exhibition is the largest ever dedicated to Fiorucci, showcasing a wealth of works and documents, and aiming to capture the complexity of his multifaceted creative dimensions.

Elio Fiorucci, Instalation view, Foto Delfino Sisto Legnani – DSL Studio © Triennale Milano

Curated by Judith Clark, an expert in fashion and museology at the University of the Arts London, and staged by scenographer and director Fabio Cherstich, the exhibition offers a biographical retrospective that goes beyond a mere tribute. With previously unheard recordings of Fiorucci’s voice recalling significant personal moments, new narratives intertwine with testimonies from other key figures in his story. This approach provides a fresh and intimate perspective on Fiorucci’s human, entrepreneurial, and cultural ventures, highlighting his unique vision that left an indelible mark on the history of fashion in Italy since the 1960s.

Elio Fiorucci, Instalation view, Foto Delfino Sisto Legnani -DSL Studio © Triennale Milano

Elio Fiorucci’s life unfolded on the international scene, beginning with the symbolic store opened in Milan’s Piazza San Babila, a meeting point for young people seeking an escape from Milanese conformism and a taste of the vibrant life of metropolises like London and New York. His first international store, opened in 1967 and designed by renowned names such as Ettore Sottsass, Andrea Branzi, and Franco Marabelli, marked the beginning of his style’s expansion beyond Italian borders.

Illustrazione a colori per stickers Panini, Anni Ottanta, Courtesy Fiorucci

Bozzetto per illustrazione Fiorucci, Courtesy Fiorucci

The exhibition features not only over five hundred items, including clothes, accessories, and artworks, but also offers an in-depth look through the research of academics and collaborators who narrate Fiorucci’s innovative experiments in marketing and fashion. It highlights how Fiorucci revolutionized the concept of the store, integrating it into an artistic dimension filled with vivid colors and irreverent atmospheres that challenged the dullness and monotony of the era.

Elio Fiorucci, Instalation view, Foto Delfino Sisto Legnani -DSL Studio © Triennale Milano

Stefano Boeri, president of the Triennale, recalls how Fiorucci transformed Milan into one of the world capitals of youthful ideas, flooding the city with his “chromatic comet” during the seventies and influencing youth culture on a global scale. The exhibition at the Triennale represents an unmissable opportunity to rediscover and celebrate the brilliant creative and human journey of a man who redefined fashion as an art form and Milan as a stage for cultural avant-gardes.

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